Tree Installation
Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How well your tree, and investment, grows depends on the care you provide during and after planting. Follow the steps below for a successful tree installation. Need help or have questions? Contact us today.
If your tree is balled and bur lapped it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 % when it was dug. As a result of the trauma trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock when planted. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following planting. Proper site preparation and good follow up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location.
Carefully follow these simple steps for tree installation:
- Proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. When handling your balled and burlapped tree, always support the bottom of the root ball. Never pick up the tree by the trunk in either balled or burlapped or containerized trees or shrubs. Never drop it on the ground. Shattering the root ball is very detrimental to your tree. If the tree is too heavy consider having it planted, or enlist the help of a friend.
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, at least two times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the new tree must push through the surrounding soil in order to establish. Breaking up the soil around the hole also provides aid in helping the emerging roots to expand. If the soil is heavy clay remove the hard pan pieces and discard them. Good topsoil should be set aside to be used in the backfill. The depth of the hole should be level with the top of the root ball or 2″-3″ higher to allow for settling.
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the trunk spreads at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree is planted.
- If you are planting a containerized tree remove the container by carefully cutting down the sides of the container. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.
- Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see if the hole is at the proper depth. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of lack of oxygen. It is better to plant 2-3 inches high above the trunk flare to allow for some settling, To avoid damage when settling the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and not the trunk.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before backfilling, view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight.
- Fill the hole gently but firmly. The goal is to make sure there are no air pockets left around the root ball of the tree. Backfill should consist of mostly the original good topsoil you removed from original hole. You may add add soil amendments such as composed manure, peat moss and bagged topsoil with the original dirt from hole. When you are about 2/3rds filled up along the sides of the root ball cut away the top of the burlap, remove any plastic, twine or string. Take the top loops of the metal root ball cage and fold under so they do not stick up out of the ground. Do not remove the metal cage on the root ball. Continue to backfill to the level the tree was grown in our fields, never place dirt over the top of the rootball or have this area lower than your existing grade. If you are in planting in a wet area place the tree higher above ground by a couple inches and bring the dirt level up to the tree. When backfilling is done a “dish” should be made around the the outside of the hole with your soil. This area should cause a small “dirt dam” to help hold in the water when you are watering your tree (see diagram below)
- Staking for support is not necessary in most home landscape situations. However protective staking may be required where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns.
- Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch acts as a blanket to hold moisture, moderate soil temperatures, and reduces competition from grass and weeds. A 2-4 inch layer of mulch is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause problems with oxygen and moisture. When placing the mulch be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the bark. A mulch free area 1-2 inches at the base of the tree is sufficient.
- Watering correctly is the most vital part of tree care after your tree is installed. DO NOT OVER WATER YOUR TREE. DO NOT WATER DAILY. Thorough but infrequent watering are critical. In our typically heavy clay soils the ground often holds a large amount of moisture and this will kill your newly planted tree. Please read the directions given to you by Allied when you purchased your tree based on the specific site situation and species of tree you purchased. Please call the nursery if you ever have any questions.
- Starter fertilizer is the only fertilizer we recommend for newly installed trees and shrubs. Please follow the directions given to you when you purchased the starter fertilizer at Allied Nursery. We highly recommend using a slow release fertilizer in early spring the year after planting your new trees and shrubs. Please stop into the nursery in early spring for our recommended fertilizer to use. NEVER use tree spikes or deep root feeders.
If you have any questions regarding planting or follow up care please feel free to call us at Allied Nursery, (815) 722-2280.